Designed to be the most cost effective, efficient and reliable kegerator with a 2-year warranty. Rated to Climate Class T so it can handle Australian weather. Compact, but can easily hold 1 x 50L commercial keg or up to 4 x 19L corny kegs!

YouTube video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Sfl-XLBcEI&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fcdn.iframe.ly%2F&source_ve_path=OTY3MTQ

Dimensions

600mm wide
640mm deep
840mm high
890mm high with castors (fridge component only, not including font, guard rail or drip tray

Diagram

Series_X_Dimensions.pdf

Specifications

Climate Class: T (Tropical)
Refrigerant: R600a
Rated Current: 0.80A
Power: 85 Watts
Capacity: 187L
Voltage: 220-240V
Hz: 50Hz

Installation & Setup

Remove and check all items from inside the kegerator

Remove any protective film and tape from the kegerator

Inspect kegerator for any damage that may have incurred in transit including liquid or oil marks inside packaging. If any damage is noted contact your retailer

Castor Wheels Installation

Make sure the kegerator is empty

Carefully lay the kegerator on its side on a soft surface such as carpet, cardboard or a towel. NOTE: Ensure the kegerator is tipped onto the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

Unscrew the feet from the base of the kegerator

Remove the screws in the base of the kegerator in each corner. These are pre-installed screws that are used to mount the castor wheels. NOTE: These can be quite tight from the factory. A 5/16″ socket or wrench will allow more leverage than a Philips driver if required

The two locking castor wheels should be installed towards the front of the kegerator

Position the kegerator back upright and leave for a minimum 1 hour before turning it on to allow the refrigerant gas to settle. If installing the castors shortly after receiving the kegerator, leave the kegerator upright for a minimum of 24 hours before turning it on

NOTE: The screw holes may be filled with foam and have a foil covering. If this is the case push and thread the screws through the foam or foil. The screw will then catch on the thread allowing it to be screwed in completely

Chrome Plated Guard Rail Installation

Position the guard rail so the feet line up with the holes in the top of the kegerator

Push the feet of the railing firmly into the holes

CO2 Cylinder Bracket Installation (optional)

Align the four holes in the bracket with the four studs on the back of the kegerator

Insert the studs into the holes and then push the bracket down firmly to secure it

Installing Regulator onto the CO2 Cylinder

Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench

Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses

Connect gas & beer lines to coupler or disconnects

Please refer to the Keg Types guide for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections

Balance Beer Lines and Carbonation levels

Please refer to the Balancing Kegerator Lines & CO2 guide for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour

Leak & Pressure Testing

Important

Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.

If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.

Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an Isolation Test can help determine the location of he leak.

Method 1 – Pressure Decay Test

Connect System

Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

Set Pressure

Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

Turn CO2 cylinder valve off

Once pressurised, turn the valve handle on the CO2 cylinder clockwise until the valve is turned off

Check Pressure

Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator

If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system

If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 – Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case

Method 2 – Detergent Bubble Test

Connect System

Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

Set Pressure

Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 40-50psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to ensure the system is properly pressurised. Note: We use a higher pressure in order to make any leaks easier to detect. Ensure there is no beer in the keg as it may become over-carbonated

Check For Leaks

Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.

Connections to check include:

• The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks

IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.

Perform a Pressure Decay Test

Once any leaks have been located and fixed, perform another Pressure Decay Test to ensure that the system holds pressure

Isolation Test

If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system

Connect System

Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

Set Pressure

Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

Isolate System

Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.

Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.
Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob
Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg
(If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator
(If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder
Wait at least 12 hours

Test System

After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating

If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak
If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak
Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.
Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a Detergent Bubble Test in order to locate the leak precisely.

NOTE: It is safe to submerge duo tight fittings and EVA Barrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed

Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams (Ball Lock Posts & Disconnects)

Single Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Double Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Triple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Quadruple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Troubleshooting

Beer is not pouring or not pouring well

Pouring too quickly

Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer

Pouring too slowly

CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.

Beer is too foamy/frothy

Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer

Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.

Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled

Beer does not have enough head

Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

Beer may be too cold. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator

(Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head – this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head

No beer comes out of tap

Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post

The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate

CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty

Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the calibration and Set Point of the kegerator

Beer is too warm

Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and adjust the Set Point of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour

Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg

Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform Offset Calibration to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on

Gas Issues & Gas Leaks

CO2 Cylinder is empty

Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty

Possible Gas Leak. Perform an Isolation Test to check for potential CO2 leaks

Kegerator cooling issues

Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature

Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency

Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly

Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require Calibration.

Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system

Kegerator is too cold

Set Point temperature may be incorrect. Check the Set Point temperature. For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues

General Troubleshooting

Sides of kegerator are extremely warm

This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance

Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature

Child Lock engaged. These have a built in Child Lock. To adjust the Set Point temperature, press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point)

Excessive noise from fan

Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

Black substance under cold plate

This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about – simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.

Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades

No castor wheel screws

These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16″ socket or wrench, or Philips driver

Ice build up on cold plate

Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

EE Error

This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections

Front display flashing

Board Failure. This can indicate a failure of the front LCD Temperature Control board or the Main Circuit Board. Both boards are designed for easy replacement

No power to kegerator

The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again

Board failure. This can indicate a failure of the front LCD Temperature Control board or the Main Circuit Board. Both boards are designed for easy replacement

Water is leaking from kegerator

Melted ice buildup. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

Kegerator Noise

Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.

Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.

To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.

In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right-hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.

Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.